![]() Use the drop down menus to make selections on the unit finish, master cylinder, and hydraulic hose set to put together your kit. The down side is that bleeding requires unbolting the calipers and moving them to prevent air pockets.Hydro-Boost Brake Booster for 1967-1970 Ford Mustang w/ Power Brake Pedal: ![]() The bottom of the trailing arms is the only place that has a good flat spot for mounting. The Massive Lee caliper mounting kit removes the factory drum handbrake so I opted to have custom brackets welded to the bottom of the factory trailing arms. The wilwood pads chosen were due to biting hard while cold as drifting shouldn’t ever overheat the pads. For different cars, different rotor diameters and thicknesses should be taken into account. This was used because it came with a 90 degree NPT fitting for the wilwood calipers and was adapted for the metric hard lines.įinally, the choice of calipers was the same kind from the Massive Lee E30 handbrake kit. This soft line leads into a short hard line and back into an adapter for the final -3 AN line from the GTO stainless steel brake line package from wilwood. This way, the hard lines aren’t fatigued when the vehicle goes over bumps. For this I used upgraded factory stainless steel hard lines that I had spare. Since E30 trailing arms have a significant amount of movement, soft lines are used. Once the line exits the body of the vehicle, a T fitting is used to split the output to each wheel. This keeps just enough pressure in the line that pumping the lever isn’t necessary to use the brakes but not enough to drag the brakes. This is standard in most disc braking systems. Soon after my master there is a 2 psi residual pressure valve. The wilwood caliper came with a double flare fitting but everything in my install is a bubble flare. I purposefully did my entire install with metric hard lines that can be found at any auto parts store. With it, they gave me a little adapter that works to my hard lines. This saved me from having to manually bend hard lines, makes maintenance 100x easier, and made the install look much cleaner. The guys at Sikky sent me a banjo bolt for the wilwood master with a -3 AN soft stainless steel line. The next part is really personal preference. These rely on the type of caliper being used in order to size the master properly. There is lots of math that goes into cylinder sizing but ASD has a nice Master cylinder sizing chart. The 5/8″ will be physically easier to actuate but may require a larger pull of the handle to lock the wheels. The positive side is that it will require less distance on depression to lock the wheels. The larger bore (3/4″) pushes more fluid but will take more effort. The usual choice is between a 3/4″ or 5/8″ bore. Master cylinder sizing is of the utmost importance. ASD and Sikky both make basic handles that come with housings and your choice of master cylinder. To start, a handle and master cylinder should be chosen. ![]() Various metric hard lines, fittings, and one T fitting Sikky handbrake with 5/8″ Master cylinder Wilwood grabby pads (only need to buy one) Wilwood GTO brake line kit wil-220-8756 (optional) Wilwood 120-9689 dual pistol calipers (buy two) This is a generic tutorial for the E30 but only minor changes are needed for any vehicle. ![]() No matter the debate, a full secondary system is preferable to in-line. There is a chance of uneven brake pressures front to rear if the regular brakes and the in-line hydraulic brakes are used simultaneously. ![]() This adds complexity and risk to the factory brakes by adding more points of possible failure. In contrast, in-line hydraulic handbrakes tap into the existing braking system. With lightweight parts like wilwood calipers, this is mitigated fairly well. The main disadvantage of full secondary systems is added unsprung weight. Secondary handbrake systems have many advantages and only a few minor disadvantages to in-line hydraulic handbrakes. ![]()
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